Photo: Northern Pacific train passengers stopped to view solar eclipse at Gallatin City, Montana

View of a Northern Pacific train engine with two passenger cars stopped on the tracks to view solar eclipse at Gallatin City, Montana. The engine has a large snowplow mounted on its front. Many people, likely passengers, are gathered in front of the train, some even standing on the engine itself.

Photo: Railroad crew on handcar

Five Northern Pacific Railroad workers standing on handcar, 1910.

The trans-continental Northern Pacific railroad completed its route between Rock Creek, Montana and Missoula, Montana in June of 1883. This accomplishment triggered a chain reaction that positioned the approximate 20-square-block area north of the Clark Fork River as the keystone within the larger architecture of Western Montana’s Garden City.

What makes Missoula unique among many Montana towns is the survival and continued vibrancy of the downtown area well beyond the age of the railroad. June of 2026 marks the 143rd anniversary of the NP’s arrival. The stories of resilience, adaptation and reinvention spanning those years are varied, but one theme emerges: Missoulians have been committed to the success of downtown business and culture from the beginning.

The Missoula Mercantile opened in 1885 as the dominant commercial business in Missoula; its early success can be linked to the many benefits of an NP route through Missoula. The “Merc,” however, continued to prosper beyond the railroad age. Long term success of this store and other long-standing businesses can be attributed to the vision, determination, and persistence of many community members as they built Missoula into a prosperous city in Western Montana.

A Young Community is Tested

Photo: Florence Hotel, Missoula, Montana

View of the Florence Hotel, Missoula, Montana, corner of Front Street and Higgins Avenue looking west. Hotel was built in 1887-1888.

The story of Missoula’s Florence Hotel is a perfect symbol of the resilience of the young community and its commitment to a vital atmosphere downtown. The first Florence building was built in 1888 and named for the wife of Missoula Mercantile owner AB Hammond. Hammond had a vested interest in promoting activity downtown and therefore a heavy hand in financing the hotel across Higgins Avenue from the Merc. From that day forward, the Florence and the Mercantile stood as reminders to anyone traveling Higgins Avenue that Missoula was a town centered around enterprise and hospitality. But this commitment would be tested time and time again at the Florence Hotel as well as many other important Missoula landmarks.

When we think of fire in the west today, the forest is our focus. But structure fire was a real and persistent threat in Missoula at the dawn of the 20th century. In January of 1913, a catastrophic fire destroyed the Florence Hotel. The response to this tragedy was immediate. A group of prominent business owners, led by the Mercantile’s CH McLeod (who had taken the reins when his uncle AB moved on to Oregon) quickly rebuilt the hotel and continued forward into the famed roaring twenties amid a growing city. Unfortunately, fire continued to plague Missoula’s downtown and destroy multiple businesses. The Florence Hotel fell victim once again in September of 1936.

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Photo: Florence Hotel Building before the fire of 1936

Original Florence Hotel building before the September 24, 1936 fire. Missoula, Montana. Photograph shows building on corner of block. Cars are parked on the street and people can be seen on the sidewalk.

Photo: Florence Hotel building after the fire of 1936

Florence Hotel building after the fire of 1936. Missoula, Montana.

Photo: Florence Hotel

Florence Hotel, Missoula, Montana. View is looking to the northwest. Cars are parked along the street and traveling along the street. Pedestrians can be seen.

But this time the atmosphere was opposite that of the late teens and twenties. The Great Depression affected every town in the country; Missoula did not escape. Fortunately, the impact on the Garden City was not nearly as devastating as what many of its Eastern Montana neighbors in countless farm and ranch communities suffered. However, by 1940, the McLeods running the Mercantile couldn’t deny the negative impact of a desolate and depressing scene scarring the landscape.

This time CH’s son, Walter, led the charge to revive the hotel and boost downtown traffic. The endeavor proved more challenging than what his father had orchestrated in 1913, but Walter was determined. He succeeded in bringing together multiple businesses and other community members to fund the Art Moderne hotel. 

The group of investors were motivated to build a lasting landmark in the heart of the city. Unique for the time, part of the funding negotiation included a provision allotting ⅔ ownership of the new Florence Hotel to Missoula community investors. When the third Florence Hotel opened in 1941, it did so, in part, as the community’s hotel.

Photo: Celebration dinner opening of Florence Hotel

Grand Opening celebration, Governor’s Room, 1941. Walter McLeod sits third from the left.

The hotel was a state-of-the-art building containing the first central air-conditioning system in the region, among other modern luxuries. For many though, the gem of the building was the Governor's Room located on the third floor. It quickly became the quintessential gathering place for wedding receptions, retirement parties, and debutant balls, as well as countless other community events. 

The Florence stands today as a pillar on the southwest corner of Higgins Avenue and Main Street, but many other hotels have made a significant mark on Missoula over time.

Grandeur on the North End

The Grand Pacific Hotel opened in 1903 and served as a vital establishment on the north end of town for nearly eighty years. This hotel was positioned alongside the Northern Pacific passenger depot, which opened in 1899, on Higgins and Alder. Its convenient location catered to rail passengers and railway workers for the duration of the NP’s time in Missoula.

The first floor of the Grand Pacific was quite well equipped for the time, containing not just a lobby, but also a restaurant, commercial space, and hotel bar. The foresight of this construction plan on the north end of town mirrored–and possibly even improved upon–the design of the first Florence Hotel as a magnet for commerce and community.

Photo: Royal Neighbor of America parade float, Missoula

Parade goers outside the Park Hotel, date unknown.

At least by 1931, the Grand Pacific became the Park Hotel. As transportation evolved and passenger train travel stopped, the Park worked to reinvent itself. The Cafe was a favorite gathering place of locals and a quaint “hole-in-the-wall” attracting visitors. A few years after the Florence opened for the third time, the Flamingo Lounge opened on the ground floor of the hotel and reinvigorated the atmosphere with an upbeat vibe.

Photo: Higgins Avenue, Fire Prevention parade

NP Depot and Park (formerly Grand Pacific) Hotel, 1967 during Fire Prevention parade.

This tavern was a few blocks away from the row of Front Street taverns that were quickly becoming the center of night life. Its “out of the way” location allowed the lounge to develop a reputation as a working man’s bar; later it was considered by some to be a classic “dive bar.” It was common for spirited tussles to occur outside the bar most weekends. By the early ‘70s though, its identity as a live music venue balanced its “dive bar” reputation and attracted all types to 118 West Alder.

Photo: Higgins Avenue, Fire Prevention parade

Flamingo Lounge painting on southwest side of the hotel. Park Cafe windows on southeast side of hotel, 1967.

There were a handful of local bands who made regular appearances at the Flamingo, including Apple Jack, Gary Mundon, and the Jim Finnerman Band. These bands and others helped to establish Missoula as a center for regional music talent. The Grand Pacific/Park functioned as a hotel until the mid 1970s, but for many in Missoula, the final blow came with the closing of the Flamingo Lounge in 1980.

The Relentless Threat of Fire

Many small hotels blossomed and burned out (quite literally for some) between these anchoring structures at the north and south ends of downtown. Sadly, soon after the Missoula community celebrated the opening of the new Florence Hotel in 1941, downtown suffered yet another catastrophic fire impacting multiple businesses, including the Shapard Hotel on North Higgins.

Photo: Shapard Hotel fire, Missoula, Montana

Fire fighters on the 400 block of North Higgins, New Year’s Day, 1942.

On January first of 1942, the celebratory atmosphere of the holiday was silenced when a massive fire broke out on the 400 block of North Higgins. As seen in the photo above, the blaze devastated Yandt’s men’s clothing store, Gamble Hardware and the Shapard Hotel.

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Shapard Hotel fire, Missoula

1942 fire, including remnants of Shapard Hotel and Gamble Hardware. The Priess Hotel just across the alley remained undamaged.

Photo: Belmont and Priess Hotels on Higgins Avenue

North Higgins Avenue between Belmont and Priess hotels, date unknown.

It was quite fortunate that the 1942 fire did not spread across the alley and also destroy the Priess Hotel, though the building was later remodeled and currently has no resemblance to the Priess. However, this is not the case for the historic Belmont Hotel, directly across Higgins Avenue. 

The Belmont was a three-story hotel similar in size to the Priess and Shapard hotels and was built between 1911 and 1913. Like the others, the Belmont benefitted from its proximity to the NP Depot and the consistent flow of travelers entering from the north end of town. It is one of a few buildings from the early 20th century that maintains the original look, though it stopped functioning as a hotel in 1972. Today, many Missoulians and visitors walk into the first floor of the Belmont building, knowing it only as a wonderfully funky and delicious coffee shop: Break Espresso. 

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Photo: Belmont Hotel on Higgins Avenue, Missoula

The Belmont Hotel (opposite direction from above), date unknown. The hotel operated as Hotel Victoria for a short time.

A Growing Central Hub

Photo: Palace Hotel, Missoula, Montana

Palace Hotel, 1947. The addition is shown on the left face of the photo.

Of all the hotels sprinkled between the Florence and the Park, the Palace Hotel has arguably remained the building most recognized by long-time Missoulians. The Palace opened in 1909 (originally as the Savoy but changed in 1911). In fact, the original intent of the building situated just off the corner of Broadway and Ryman was as a combination of retail and office space. It was originally financed by the LaCasse brothers of Missoula, but they immediately leased the impressive steel and brick structure to investors who repurposed and opened the building as the Savoy Hotel.

As commerce grew into the central city district, the Palace was excellently positioned to take advantage of the growing activity. Trains gave way to cars and Broadway became a key artery in Missoula’s traffic pattern; the Palace Hotel prospered and expanded. A six-story addition was added to the hotel in 1941, and the building continues to play a significant role in the community to this day.

Photo: East Broadway from Palace Hotel roof

View from the roof of the Palace Hotel looking east down Broadway, circa 1925.

The Palace was state-of-the-art for its time, giving the Grand Pacific worthy competition in the 1910s. The first floor was designed to accommodate a cafe and lobby of a grand nature. The second floor added a luxurious parlor and dance hall. Many believe the addition to the building in 1941 was a pointed message to the Florence Hotel consortium that the Palace Hotel was not to be outdone.

Whether that rumor is true or not, both buildings lent space and atmosphere to the culture of downtown Missoula that remains today. The Palace ceased to function as a hotel in late 1980, but its influence continued. The ground floor at the corner of Ryman and Broadway has housed a handful of hotspots over the years. The beloved Casa Pablo’s Mexican restaurant of the late 1980s and 1990s, as well as the current Badlander Bar and live music venue quickly come to mind. And, as in the Park Hotel, the upper floors of the Palace were converted to apartments in the late 1990s and assisted low income Missoulians in securing housing.

Even the landmark Florence Hotel ceased to operate as a hotel in the late 1970s. However, it continues to fulfill its intention as a center of culture and community. The Governor’s Room has been a consistent historic gem enjoyed by countless wedding and anniversary attendees through the decades. And the first floor has been home to a number of unique small business ventures.

Posh Chocolate was a favorite of many at the opening of the 21st century, and now both Cocktails and Coffee as well as a partnership of local artists and craftspeople known as the Missoula Makers provide locals and tourists a unique experience when they venture downtown.

It is interesting to reflect on the contributions of these historic hotels in keeping Missoula’s primary business district from evolving into a series of law offices, insurance companies and investment firms and thus disappearing from the minds of community members and visitors alike. In the era of short-term vacation rentals, the role of the hotel as a center of cultural hospitality, tourism, commerce, and community gathering is a precarious idea.

Photo: Missoula Mercantile Company

Missoula Mercantile, circa 1940.

The Legacy of Commerce and Community

What does vibrancy and reinvention look like in 21st century Missoula? What will future generations see as the legacy of their elders? Events like the Saturday Farmers Market and Out to Lunch in the Park, community-driven developments like the Dragon Hollow playground, and continued support of restaurants and small business ventures help to continue a strong tradition. And it appears that Missoula has decided to embrace the idea of downtown hotels once again.

The major developments in downtown Missoula in recent years do include a resurgence of hotels, including the Wren, AC Hotel, and Residence Inn. A consequence of this resurgence was the demolition of nearly all of the historic Missoula Mercantile building.

It was a sacrifice contested by many in the community for various reasons. Now that the hotels and included businesses have opened, there are still those in the community who resent the development, while others enjoy the handful of new restaurants and shops occupying portions of the two-block area.

How do the descendants of the Hammond and McLeod men believe their ancestors would react to the new landscape at the corner of Higgins and Front? The two eldest remaining relatives, a granddaughter and great-granddaughter of CH McLeod, both long-term residents of Missoula, were asked this question.

The consensus was clear. Celebrating their 84th and 87th birthdays in 2026, these ladies appreciate uniquely how significantly times have changed. It will always be necessary to rebuild physical structures.

The men they knew cared about the prosperity, vitality, and culture of this community more than any single building they ever financed. The new building in the Mercantile’s old spot, is a means–just like the original Merc–by which to invigorate the downtown area and thus carry on the legacy of the many past Missoulians who have worked to maintain its unique character for generations.

Bibliography

Harmon, Jim. “From Lavish Hotel to Affordable Housing, the Historic Palace Still Serves Missoula.”
Missoula Current, December 6, 2019. https://missoulacurrent.com/palace-housing-missoula/.

———. “Harmon’s Histories: The Day the Railroad Came to Town.” Missoula Current, December 17,
2016. https://missoulacurrent.com/harmons-histories-missoula-railroad/.

———. “Harmon’s Histories: The Long Road That Led to Missoula’s Palace Apartments.” Missoula
Current, November 30, 2020. https://missoulacurrent.com/missoula-palace/.

“Lambros Sells Park Hotel.” Old Missoula, November 18, 2018. https://oldmissoula.com/lambros-sells-park-hotel-1962-2/  

Mathews, Allan James. A Guide to Historic Missoula. Vol. 6. Helena, MT: Montana Historical Society Press, 2002.

McDonald, James R. National Register of Historic Places. National Park Service. Accessed April 27, 2026. https://npgallery.nps.gov/GetAsset/93f56fb5-3eff-4160-854e-0b6963979df2.

Michels, Kirk, and James R. McDonald. National Register of Historic Places. National Park Service.
Accessed April 27, 2026. https://npgallery.nps.gov/NRHP.

Montana National Register Sign Program. “The Palace Hotel: Missoula Downtown Historic District.”
Historic Montana. Accessed April 27, 2026. https://historicmt.org/items/show/1658.

Smith, Minie. The Missoula Mercantile: The Store That Ran an Empire. Charleston, SC: The History Press, 2012.

Switzer, Sarah. “Belmont Hotel Registers, 1918–1950.” Archives West,1998. https://archiveswest.orbiscascade.org/ark:80444/xv23107.

“The History of the Florence Building.” The Historic Florence. Accessed April 26, 2026.
https://www.florencebuilding.com/history

Special Thanks to Oral History Contributors

Keith Countryman, former Flamingo Lounge employee
Annie R. ZurMuehlen, granddaughter of CH McLeod
Mary M. Pitch, granddaughter of Walter McLeod